If you pull back too far or too quickly the device will stop lowering. This device offers the same ideal characteristics as the simpler ATC XP for standard belays, while also providing auto-block capability for bringing up followers directly on an anchor. As long as there have been GriGris, there have been imitation devices made by competing companies attempting to capture a bit of the market share, while also solving some of its inherent problems. These twelve climbing harnesses have been designed... We pick the best rock climbing shoes for bouldering... We've weeded through dozens of climbing shoes to select to... After analyzing over 50 harnesses, we bought the best 12... Best GriGri Alternative that Feeds Slack Easier, Auto Block (Resistance Belaying a Second), the world's most carefully tested and objective gear reviews. A simple toggle switch allows you to reverse the device to switch modes. Each device tested for this review was thoroughly researched before being put into use, and this often involves watching Youtube and demonstration videos to grasp the proper technique for belaying with newfangled devices. In our comparative testing, many of the most popular and commonly used auto-block tubes also had some of the highest amounts of friction to overcome, which is slightly disappointing. Lowering a climber safely and smoothly to the ground with the anti-panic handle of the GriGri+. SLATE. That's where lowering and rappelling come in. The primary downside of all ATC or tube-style belay devices is that a firm grip is required on the brake strand of the rope at all times. Although it looks very similar to its predecessor, this new GriGri has seen a number of minor tweaks, often incorporating aspects that were found to be successful with the release of the GriGri+ in 2017. The active-assisted belay devices that employ a spring-loaded cam to pinch the rope when it is under tension provide the easiest and most reliable catch. 717840006630. By pushing up and out with the thumb, the device has enough room to allow slack to pass through, which is fed to the climber by being yanked out the top. However, for climbing anywhere close to your limit, where falls are a real possibility, then having brake assist is a serious advantage, and the nifty Giga Jul gives you that versatility added on to the standard multi-pitch device features. It takes some practice to dial in the sweet spot for the devices with anti-panic handles. Firstly it handles the fat, fuzzy, semi-static TR ropes that Earth Treks uses better than the Mega Jul does. The active assisted braking devices have some of the more complex methods for giving slack quickly, and each features a different method. The ergonomic design of the Vergo also allows you to hold the brake end of the rope in the same hand as the device without bending it back, so there is less friction to overcome when pulling out slack. Privacy | Cookies | Terms, The world's most in-depth and scientific reviews of gear. The second feature is a toggle switch between lead and top-rope modes, which adjusts the spring tension on the cam inside the device. They are also the easiest to learn how to use and are most climber's introduction into belaying. When lowering a climber, the belayer uses a lever-arm handle to release the grip on the rope. The sweet spot for a smooth, not too slow lower can be hard to find at first, but it's now much harder to drop a climber while lowering with a properly loaded GriGri+. These devices were the; Edelrid Mega Jul, Black Diamond ATC Pilot, Mammut Smart and we also tried the auto-locking Beal Birdie. Some minors things with the mega jul: for older single ropes with some rope kink it's not as smooth as some other (well, non-assisted) devices I've used, not sure how the Smart handles these. The Petzl Reverso was one of our favorite devices to rappel with, though in blind tests we found it a hair jerkier than the Black Diamond ATC Guide. The Mega Jul is perfect for half ropes though. A second mode for lowering involved releasing the device via the thumb loop, but testers preferred the tilt method as they found it easier to control the speed of the descent. It also comes with a price tag that you would expect from a complicated piece of engineering. We begin the testing process by using each device for months in the field, and then finish up by comparative testing each device side-by-side, rating them on five metrics (catch and bite, feeding slack, rappelling and lowering, weight and bulk, and auto-block) based upon how they perform compared to the competition. Its smaller cousin is the Edelrid Micro Jul for skinny twin and half ropes from 6.9 to 8.0 mm. Secondly, we assess for versatility, scoring models that can accommodate two ropes a bit higher. Be sure to pick up a tube-style device if you plan to rappel or multi-pitch climb. The most versatile ever belay device. The new features also don't eliminate the need to lock out the cam while feeding out slack to a leader, a potentially dangerous moment, especially close to the ground. Those models are the ATC XP, ATC Guide, Verso, Reverso, Smart Alpine, and Giga and Mega Juls. The Vergo also doesn't have the same anti-panic handle as the GriGri+ or Camp Matik, so it's possible to open it up full bore while lowering and drop a climber very fast. The devices that reliably catch like this are the Camp Matik, as well as the GriGri and GriGri+, and they received the highest scores. The low end of the price range is populated by tube-style devices, whereas the more expensive models are the active assisted braking devices. When it comes to something you're likely carry on your harness, the Edelrid MegaJul, Petzl Verso and Reverso, and the Black Diamond ATC XP are the lightest options. For those who are confused, this device updates the GriGri 2, which is no longer being produced or sold but is not at all the same as the original GriGri, which it shares the same name with. Its most endearing feature revolves around safety: it is not possible to lock out the catch cam mechanism, like on the GriGri. On the upper end of the scale, ropes over 9.8mm, especially ones that are worn a bit, so they are fuzzy, create extra friction that can make it hard to easily force them through a belay device quickly. In particular, it is easy to forget to switch from top-rope to lead, resulting in a frustrated leader as they get continually short-roped. For those who are new to climbing or inexperienced with a GriGri, or who simply like having even more safety features, we recommend the GriGri+ instead. Of course, every belay device here will catch a fall by arresting the rope provided they are used with proper technique, but due to their unique designs, the assisted braking devices tend to do this with more reliability, and far less effort, than a standard tube-style device. Rappelling is a pain. Choosing a belay device is not an easy task, but the first step we recommend is assessing your own needs. The Mega Jul Sport is the sport climbing version of the award-winning Mega Jul. Of course, we pretty much always belay up the second in auto-block mode. It has one of our favorite catches, and it engages fully even with lighter climbers. The Mega Jul Sport takes double ropes, making it more versatile for rappelling and belaying with half or twin ropes. Set up in auto-block mode hanging directly off the anchor requires using the additional carabiner hole at the top of the device, and loading the device the same as you would for manual mode. To begin, the Black Diamond ATC XP can't be beat on price and is a solid and reliable option, although we recommend the Black Diamond ATC Guide as another great budget buy because it is far more versatile with auto-block function at only a tiny increase in cost. At first, the company made braids and cords. This device works in the same way as the GriGri, but also includes a couple of clever over-rides for the most common errors amongst GriGri users. With my limited use over the past few days, it would seem to me that an autobloc backup for the rappel might not be necessary. We highly recommend checking it out if you don't like the way the GriGri feeds slack, or are curious about the other options out there. Seven of the devices we tested began with an automatic advantage in this category — the ability to rappel two strands. The Pistol-Grip Position: to feed slack with the Camp Matik you use your index finger and thumb to squeeze this black trigger on the bottom. We found the correct way a bit confusing since it seems to be upside down if you are used to a GriGri's orientation, and puts a half twist into the belay loop when used correctly. In top-rope mode, the cam grips far more tightly, while in lead mode, it allows for an easier time paying out slack. If you're looking for the best value out there, we've picked out a few that we consider exceptional. It is possible to open this handle way too far, without a hand on the brake rope, and suddenly drop the climber to the ground. Shoppers should recognize that none of the active assisted locking devices can rappel a doubled rope, nor can the passive ClickUp+, Black Diamond ATC Pilot, or Mammut Smart 2.0. The belay technique is similar to any other tube-style device, but when feeding slack, the belayer must hold the thumb loop so the rope will run through the device without locking up. MEGA JUL (0) EN DE US FR (0) MEGA JUL. Edelrid Mega Jul Sport: $36. OASIS. Most multi-pitch devices do not have braking assist, but so many climbers love the braking assist found on their GriGris that they will carry two devices up a multi-pitch climb, rather than do without the added assistance. Giga Jul Mega Jul Sport Mega Jul Micro Jul JUL² Guide Mode Additional Eyelet Single Rope Belay Twin/Half Rope Belay Rope Diameter 7.1 – 10.0 mm 7.9 – 11.0 mm 7.8 – 10.5 mm 6.9 – 8.0 mm 8.9 –11.0 mm Weight 100 g 88 g 65 g 62 g 105 g The Mega Jul has a learning curve, as with any other belay device, but after a few times belaying on it, most folks are proficient. That can be important in canyoneering or in general bushwacking where one may wish to … The Camp Matik uses a unique "pistol" grip design, which does take some getting used to if you've belayed differently for years. The ability to take and give slack quickly and precisely is important to ensure a good belay — especially when close to the ground. We have been climbing for about 2 years so we are relative newbies – we are mainly focused on outdoor sport climbing. (DE): https://goo.gl/PFndG6 Das Mega Jul ist eines der vielseitigsten Sicherungsgeräte auf dem Markt. Compared to the other active assisted braking devices, though, we found this technique to be relatively quick and intuitive to perform and didn't require much thinking after only a couple of pitches. It lowers smoothly and jerk free, largely due to the absence of an anti-panic mechanism. The engineers at Edelrid worked hard to solve many of the problems with the older device, and the result has quickly become our favorite belay device for multi-pitch climbing. Rappelling and lowering accidents are two of the most common types and are often easily preventable. A secondary consideration, since we are all guilty of making mistakes, is how easy is the device to release once locked up so that I can quickly begin feeding slack again? So where does the Giga Jul fit into the range? Second best when it comes to this category are most of the "passive" assisted braking devices, like the Edelrid Giga Jul, Mammut Smart 2.0, and Black Diamond ATC Pilot. Consider these models only for single-pitch routes or multi-pitches in combination with a two-strand device. Passive models are thus dependent on this carabiner, and its shape and size can have a significant impact on performance (up to 35% differences in our tests). For the passive devices, we like the Edelrid Mega Jul and the Mammut Smart 2.0 the best. The sun setting on central Oregon and our belay device review. The cam on the GriGri+ engages quickly and completely, rotating up to pinch the rope. These devices can also be hard to master for people with small hands, which may include children. The cam spring is a bit tighter, making it easier to pay out slack ATC-style, and the area on the back of the cam where you might hold your thumb to pay out slack is now lower profile as well, reducing the risk of holding this open when a leader falls. The ATC Guide adds another ounce to your harness but not much more bulk, whereas the Mammut Smart Alpine is both a little bulkier and heavier still. Like most of us, his passion was kindled in the climbing gym, but soon carried him outside after beholding the mighty Diamond on Longs Peak, and deciding he needed to up his game enough to climb it. Despite the minor downsides, the Vergo is far and away our favorite active assisted braking device that isn't a GriGri. The technique felt natural after a few pitches. Some passive assist devices are barely any more expensive, making them a compelling option instead. Order-No. Le micro Jul et le Mega Jul d'Edelrid Apparaissent, sur le marché des systèmes d'assurage, le Micro Jul et le Mega Jul, par Edelrid. As the quality of rope manufacturing has increased, climbers are far more frequently using thinner ropes, with 8.9mm-9.2mm being much more common, and 9.5mm now being considered a reasonably fat "workhorse." Belaying the leader with braking assist requires learning the technique, which we found to be pretty easy, but also takes slightly more effort than belaying in manual mode. Lead belays and top rope laps on a sunny winter afternoon at Smith Rock. In TR the Jul 2 worked just like the Mega Jul, but easier, in two senses. We hope the information provided has been helpful in your search. How can we improve GearLab? Designed with a specific geometry for sport climbing for slicker belaying, including with thicker ropes. We often find them jerky when compared to tube devices. Be sure to read the Camp Matik manual carefully to learn how to properly belay with it. ADD TO CART . Among the active assist braking devices, the Mad Rock Lifeguard is a decent alternative for those that like to multi-pitch climb with a GriGri. SPORTS. Searching for the best climbing belay device? And the biggest hurdle to usage of the GriGri+ is that it can be challenging to learn to use properly and safely, an argument many die-hard ATC users cite as the reason they avoid the GriGri, to begin with. Feeding slack quickly requires locking out the assisted brake, Anti-panic handle prevents dropping while lowering, Customize the amount of cam spring tension with lead and top-rope modes, Stainless steel wear plate insert for added durability, Switching modes is difficult and an easy step to forget, Unit locks up easily on lowers if not used slowly, Simplest and easiest to learn belaying techniques, Ideal for belaying your second on multi-pitch climbs, Pays out slack easily without needing to lock out safety catch, Ergonomic design is easy to hold brake strand and pay out rope at same time, Active assist, manual, and auto-block modes all in one device, Less inherent friction and easier to use than Mega Jul, Stainless steel inserts for greater durability, Slightly heavier than other auto-block devices, Active assist lead belaying more tiring than standard tube style, Same belay technique as with tube-style devices, Emergency backup locks device if rope slips too fast. If the belayer is hit by a rock, slammed into the wall, or the rope somehow slips out of their grip, a falling climber will hit the deck in about one second. 2019 saw the long-awaited release of the Edelrid Giga Jul, an updated version of the Mega Jul.The engineers at Edelrid worked hard to solve many of the problems with the older device, and the result has quickly become our favorite belay device for multi-pitch climbing. PRODUCT INFORMATION. The Edelrid Eddy and Mad Rock Lifeguard have more friction, which makes it challenging to pay rope out quickly. The thinnest single ropes on the market today are only 8.5mm (! Weight: 65 g Our most versatile belay and abseil device made of solid stainless steel for durability. BRAKINGASSIST TUBERS. While this is to prevent someone from accidentally dropping themselves or their partner, it creates a narrow window between lowering and locking up. Which brings up another important consideration in this category: how easy it is to hold a climber locked off. The Mega Jul can be used to rappel in two ways: like a standard tube-style device, in which it functions about the same as an ATC Guide and requires a backup friction hitch for redundancy, and in an auto-lock mode which will lock on the rope unless the user disengages the device, effectively eliminating the need for a backup friction hitch. In 2019, Petzl updated the most popular assisted braking device in the world for a third time, releasing the newest version, now simply known (once again) as the GriGri. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted-braking tuber in one. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. The brilliance is that the device functions exactly like a simple tube, and the belayer uses the same simple belay technique they were taught when they learned. No matter which device you choose, it's important to tie a knot in the ends of the rope. When assessing for friction, we noticed how each device felt while out on multi-pitch climbs, but also wanted some more concrete results, so compared one device after another on a mock anchor, noticing the differences in the amount of friction we had to overcome to feed the rope through the auto-blocked device. Edelrid Mega Jul Sport Belay Kit has been discontinued by Edelrid and is no longer available. As you can see, the Vergo is a bit smaller than either of the GriGris, but it weighs the same amount as the heavier GriGri+. The Vergo is only good to go with ropes 8.9mm and thicker, so beware if you commonly use an ultra-thin cord. While the GriGri is far and away the most popular active assisted braking device on the market, it still comes with the notable downside that one must lock open the braking cam to quickly feed slack to a leader, a design that has inspired countless competitors searching for better methods. We also teach other climbers and partners how to use each device, and watch them learn and belay in order to notice problems, flaws, or benefits that we may have missed. Once mastered, this method proves far easier, and safer, than lead belaying with a GriGri. The Mega Jul weighs just 65 grams and can be used for double or single ropes from 7.8mm to 10.5mm. Belay devices come in three different categories –active assisted braking, passive assisted braking, and traditional tube chock — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. The brake end must always be in control and lower than the climber end for the mechanism to engage. Devices that lock up on a hair trigger are very difficult to master, and are the cause of many frustrated lead climbers as they are continuously short-roped by their belayer. Because of this great design, its advantages include the smoothest paying out of slack of any device we have ever tried. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. The belay technique is similar to any other tube-style device, but when feeding slack, the belayer must hold the thumb loop so the rope will run through the device without locking up. The Mega Jul Sport supports rope from 7.9 to 11mm while the Mega Jul supports 7.9 to 10.5mm and the Micro Jul supports the Flycatcher rope of 6.9mm. The standout performance from assisted braking devices comes from the GriGri. The "passive" Mammut Smart 2.0 - this device creates a pinch on the rope by rotating when the climber falls. PRODUCT INFORMATION. ADD TO CART . Most of the devices we have tested offer some way to do so, and we have noted this in the specs table in the chart at the top of this article. If you pull back too far on the lever, the unit locks up. It's only a little bit lighter but a lot more compact. Déclinés du système de tube classique, ils permettent l'assurage d'un premier de cordée, de un à deux seconds de cordée depuis un relais, et enfin de descendre en rappel. We would not use it to belay a second off the anchor from above. Ropes on the narrow side can slip through some belay devices due to there not being enough friction if the design doesn't take narrow ropes into consideration. This tube-style device allows one to use the simplest, easiest to learn, and most commonly taught belay style for paying out slack while leading, negating the need to learn a new style based on the belay device. Edelrid also makes a passive single-slot model called the Jul2 and an active assisted locking device called the Edelrid Eddy . The result is a comprehensive comparison tested review, and some excellent recommendations regardless of whether you are new or seasoned, and climb in the gym, or on the largest faces and peaks in the world. However, because you need to push and pull on them quite a bit to lower your partner, they are quite safe to use and lock up as soon as you let go. The Matik and Eddy locked up more than the GriGri+, but all require a deft hand that does improve with practice. Using a, I-beam carabiner like the one shown here added significant friction to the system, making it much harder to pull out the needed slack quickly. While it has been a long time coming, the Trango Vergo is one of the most appealing active assisted braking devices we have tested. Feeding slack in assisted braking mode requires learning a new technique. Assisted braking devices reduce the likelihood of dropping a lead climber, and also make it much easier to lock off and hold someone for long periods of time. The device is light, simple, and easy to set up, and double-rope capabilities increase its versatility. Our grading for this metric took into consideration whether a device is capable of being used this way or not and whether it is easy to set up or very confusing and challenging. Andy is a lifelong climber, with over 24 years of experience in all disciplines. While there are some downsides, GriGris have become nearly ubiquitous at the crag or in the gym no matter where in the world you are and offer tremendous advantages over standard belay devices. It also easily accommodates two strands of rope, making it ideal and versatile for rappelling — a huge bonus. The thumb is slotted into the loop as shown here, and this hand also holds the brake rope. For instance, to catch a fall with a tube-style device, the belayer must lock the rope off down by their hip, while also gripping tightly to the rope to keep it from slipping. With this model, it is easier than ever to "push" rope through the device, in the same way slack is fed with a tube style device, although the cam must still be overridden to feed out an armload or two in a hurry. The keeper cable is aided by a thumb hook that juts out from the brake side of the device. The standard tube-style devices, like the Black Diamond ATC models and the Petzl Verso and Reverso, are what scored the lowest compared to the rest of the field. While it is not technically a tube, the Wild Country Revo functions just like one and is far and away the highest scorer when it comes to smoothly paying out slack. We believe that all types of climbers can benefit from knowing how to use a GriGri, and recommend the + especially for those new to the game. As the only tube-style and passive (read: no moving parts) assisted-braking device in this review, the Mega Jul Sport relies purely on the geometry of the device and the angle of the rope to catch a fall. Next, consider what techniques you already know, or what techniques or resources you have for learning a new belay style. The Giga Jul awesomely negates that need, by incorporating passive assist braking with standard tube-style functionality (what they call "manual" mode), combined with auto-block, for the most versatile belay device we have seen. The final consideration for this metric is the range of rope diameters that a belay device is capable of gripping. In "active" models, braking is created by a pinching mechanism inside the device itself; "passive" models rely on a pinch between the carabiner and the device to hold the rope. Although they are expensive, high scorers like the GriGri are a great value due to their incredible performance. Top rope belaying with the Black Diamond ATC Pilot. The lower arm now has a bit more play, making it slightly harder to simply open full. Enter the new Wild Country Revo, which solves this issue by adding an automatic locking mechanism that stops the rope if it moves through the device faster than 4m/s. When you click on links to buy products we may earn money to support, How to Choose a Belay Device for Rock Climbing. Always use these devices with the manufacturer recommended carabiner whenever possible (usually an HMS type), and expect that any deviance (along with changes in rope diameter) will affect its performance. But the Mega Jul Sport has one big advantage: it can be rigged for double-line descents. This model is also heavier and more expensive than the standard model. The Jul 2 is a single rope assisted braking device, the Mega Jul takes two ropes and has a sport climbing version as well, and the Micro Jul is the incredibly lightweight version of this for use with Edelrid's super-thin alpine ropes. Lastly, while Trango makes it clear in all its instructional documentation and training videos, it is easy to accidentally clip the Vergo into the harness the wrong way, which diminishes the amount of friction a leader puts on the catch cam. The devices featured here are of three main styles: active assist braking, passive assist braking, and tube-style, so be sure to identify your own needs to help you narrow down the selection. The difference in lowering/rappelling scores comes down to the smoothness of the action and the range it is good for. The only real downside to the ATC Guide is that it doesn't include any form of braking assistance. Rappelling can also be done in multiple configurations—either with the device turned around to perform like a traditional tuber or in locking mode, though the locking configuration was not as smooth. The first is that the handle has an anti-panic feature. They use similar movements to tubes but require upward pressure on a handle or loop to disable the device's locking mechanism when feeding out slack quickly. We then practice our techniques before hitting the crag, and have been sure to belay a minimum of 30 pitches with each device (but usually way more) before publishing our findings. First released in 2017, the GriGri+ has several safety features not found on the standard GriGri, hopefully reducing the risk of belayer error accidents.